Fishing Victoria Forum

Seb85 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 18, 2019 1:03 pm

Cavitation plate?? Please educate me intrigued to know. Show me a photo of yours too perhaps, if you dont mind.
I have a split hand paddle that I'm thinking to put somewhere behind the seat. Where do you keep yours?

I just googled some as I'm not home.

As for the Paddle, I split in two and keep one in a horizontal Rod holder fixed to the rear track and one loose in with Paddle head in the footwell and bar running the side of my seat. (Handy for adjusting direction when not moving for the right angles).

piscateur wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 18, 2019 1:35 pm

Seb85 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 18, 2019 1:03 pm

Cavitation plate?? Please educate me intrigued to know. Show me a photo of yours too perhaps, if you dont mind.
I have a split hand paddle that I'm thinking to put somewhere behind the seat. Where do you keep yours?

I just googled some as I'm not home.

As for the Paddle, I split in two and keep one in a horizontal Rod holder fixed to the rear track and one loose in with Paddle head in the footwell and bar running the side of my seat. (Handy for adjusting direction when not moving for the right angles).

Oooh thats a good idea! Less stuff on the side.
I thought that plastic cover thing is above the water or not fully submerged.
And what about the battery?
Atm i have the battery in the box behind the seat. If the transducer is to be on that cavitation plastic thingy, the battery gotta be at the front somewhere. If it's in the hatch thing, then need to drill a hole for the cable?

I’m not sure if it affects new sounders, but I mounted my transducer in a “wet mount” inside the hull so it reads through the hull. This way it doesn’t get damaged when launching and retrieving and doesn’t get in the way. The only negative is it doesn’t give an accurate temperature reading. But I’m not chasing different temp currents for Pelagics so for my fishing (trout, snapper, squid, gummies, flathead, etc) it doesn’t really matter what the water temp is once your out there.
My sounder is a Lawrence elite 4 chirp

Tim399 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:18 pm

I’m not sure if it affects new sounders, but I mounted my transducer in a “wet mount” inside the hull so it reads through the hull. This way it doesn’t get damaged when launching and retrieving and doesn’t get in the way. The only negative is it doesn’t give an accurate temperature reading. But I’m not chasing different temp currents for Pelagics so for my fishing (trout, snapper, squid, gummies, flathead, etc) it doesn’t really matter what the water temp is once your out there.
My sounder is a Lawrence elite 4 chirp

That's the one when people put the transducer inside and use some sorta bluetac? What is it exactly that blutac thing?

Also i heard it only works if no air at all in that blutac thing.

I tried on my old kayak, didnt work.

Seb85 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:47 pm

Tim399 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:18 pm

I’m not sure if it affects new sounders, but I mounted my transducer in a “wet mount” inside the hull so it reads through the hull. This way it doesn’t get damaged when launching and retrieving and doesn’t get in the way. The only negative is it doesn’t give an accurate temperature reading. But I’m not chasing different temp currents for Pelagics so for my fishing (trout, snapper, squid, gummies, flathead, etc) it doesn’t really matter what the water temp is once your out there.
My sounder is a Lawrence elite 4 chirp

That's the one when people put the transducer inside and use some sorta bluetac? What is it exactly that blutac thing?

Also i heard it only works if no air at all in that blutac thing.

I tried on my old kayak, didnt work.

When you hull-mount your transducer you usually use a foam cutout for it to rest in and some stuff called 'marine goop' or something, both of which you can buy from scott lovig hobie.

link - https://slhobie.com.au/gear/kayak-acces ... arine-goop

For mine I cut out a perfect shape of foam that the transducer would fit inside of, glued it to the bottom of the hull with selleys all clear. Once dry this creates a well that holds water. Then push the transducer into this well, and whenever you go fishing fill this little well with water. This is called a wet mount, and is my favourite method.

The issue you might have previously had is air bubbles between the transducer and the hull. A good tip if glueing the transducer to the hull (this method worked for my last kayak for a couple of years) is to heat the selleys all clear in a bucket of hot water. This makes the silicone runny. Then cut the nozzle so it is a large opening, and start siliconing at one end of the foam well (using a foam well already glued down with this method helps the silicone pool up without running, and also gives some shock absorption if something loose in the hull slides into the transducer once set) in one smooth motion with the nozzle INSIDE the big bead of silicone run the bead to the other end of the well. If you go back and forth laying the silicone it will create air bubbles which will interfere with the sonar. Having the silicone warm and the nozzle inside the bead as you lay it prevents air bubbles. Mine did come unstuck after a couple of years, then I just trimmed the silicone off with a Stanley knife (didn’t have to be perfect) then glued it down again. This time I scuffed the surface up with 240 grit sandpaper, then when I got the PA I just pulled the transducer out of the hull.

Seb85 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 18, 2019 4:24 pm

Oooh thats a good idea! Less stuff on the side.
I thought that plastic cover thing is above the water or not fully submerged.
And what about the battery?
Atm i have the battery in the box behind the seat. If the transducer is to be on that cavitation plastic thingy, the battery gotta be at the front somewhere. If it's in the hatch thing, then need to drill a hole for the cable?

I didnt go through hull as in the Slayer 10 (I did with my Hobie outback) there isn't a good flat area that's level with the water, ie not quite horizontal so this was the best option. Where I've showed you its adequately protected. I fold most of the unused cable within the Spaces of the Propel Arm and leave enough cable to run to your head unit and to battery. the Front hatch cover/lid is rubber and will fold over the cable going to the battery so no holes required.

Upgraded my kayak light stick. Cost me about $10.

Strip LEDs from ebay
Electrical cable and clips from Bunnings
PVC pipe from Bunnings
Waterproof rocker switch from Jaycar
And some duck tape

Clip to the same battery for the sounder. Lit my garage pretty well.

That looks fairly bright.
I was thinking about doing something similar myself.
Make sure the connections are well sealed, salwater will kill those alligator clips quick smart...
Ps. It's actually DUCT tape not duck tape

purple5ive wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 14, 2020 9:35 am

That looks fairly bright.
I was thinking about doing something similar myself.
Make sure the connections are well sealed, salwater will kill those alligator clips quick smart...
Ps. It's actually DUCT tape not duck tape

Oh yes, lol.

Yeah, i put the battery in a waterproof container, and so the clips are well protected inside the container too.
Pretty bright, probably the same or brighter than the Phillips 8w light in my garage.