Fishing Victoria Forum

Guys,
so thinking about attempting the bearings soon.

2 options im looking at.

buy the HUB in a TUB (provided i get my model) and just replace the whole hub including Pre packed bearings (Dunbier Brand)

other option is to do it the traditional way, pull the bearing out and get a replacement, new grease and seals and do it that way.

has anyone used the dunbier hub in a tub before? im not sure what bearing these thing use.
on the other side, if i was to go to the traditional route, whats a good brand of bearings to get, supercheap have the Timken on clearance atm. are these any good?

Cheers

I do ol skool. If the hub is OK and not overly rusted just replace the bearings, Cones and seals, repack the bearings ( they are shown on you tube how to do, it's the palm cup technique ) the cones hammer out with a punch, to get the new cones started use the old cones to line them up straight before hit them home with the punch, be sure you have the cones the right way up because they can be fitted upside down incorrectly ! I also line the inside of the hub with grease. During my apprenticeship I must have done hundreds.

i know how to do it, im just trying to see if the lazy way out is the best hahaha

the hub in a tub is 56 per side, thats a hundred job for the whole job
in the traditional way, by the time i buy bearings, grease and stuff its probably going to get close to that id say.

the hub in a tub is pregreased, so remove old hub, fit new one and be done (well i think thats it pretty much)
less **** to go wrong lol

Timken is the way to go for your bearings

A question on wheel bearing replacement.. how much would you expect to pay per axle at a mechanic?

The reason i ask is because i have been wondering if this particular mechanic was trying to rip me off for a trailer that i was looking to get fixed up a while back.. i thought the quote he gave me was very high.

purple5ive wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 18, 2020 4:09 pm

Guys,
so thinking about attempting the bearings soon.

2 options im looking at.

buy the HUB in a TUB (provided i get my model) and just replace the whole hub including Pre packed bearings (Dunbier Brand)

other option is to do it the traditional way, pull the bearing out and get a replacement, new grease and seals and do it that way.

has anyone used the dunbier hub in a tub before? im not sure what bearing these thing use.
on the other side, if i was to go to the traditional route, whats a good brand of bearings to get, supercheap have the Timken on clearance atm. are these any good?

Cheers

Yes timken is one of the good ones for taper roller bearings

purple5ive wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 18, 2020 4:41 pm

i know how to do it, im just trying to see if the lazy way out is the best hahaha

the hub in a tub is 56 per side, thats a hundred job for the whole job
in the traditional way, by the time i buy bearings, grease and stuff its probably going to get close to that id say.

the hub in a tub is pregreased, so remove old hub, fit new one and be done (well i think thats it pretty much)
less **** to go wrong lol

Are the new ones in a tub galvanized hubs,
Just make sure they are not cheap crap from china where u may have issues with the studs being inferior quality either snapping or the thread stripping

You can do it properly, or you can take a short cut and rely on others who take no responsibility. My advice is to take the time to ensure things are done properly. A small price to pay to save you time & money down the track.

yeah that why im asking here if anyone has actually gone down the hub in a tub path before.
they are Dunbier ones, so i thought might be reasonable quality.

Redhunter wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 18, 2020 5:24 pm

You can do it properly, or you can take a short cut and rely on others who take no responsibility. My advice is to take the time to ensure things are done properly. A small price to pay to save you time & money down the track.

As redhunter said
I dont run bearing buddies or anything like it,i don't trust them.
Not sure about the dunbier hubs nowadays but my last one was a dunbier which had a single lip seal at the back which are crap and i replaced them with a double contact seal and s/s slip ring which inserts into the back of the hub and rotates with it while the seal is stationary with a standard grease cup in the front sealed with a smear of sikaflex. Water never entered the hub for 20years that i owned it
My current trailer is a quintrex trailer which has the same setup and i service them every 6 months to make sure all is good