Line twist

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Rod Bender
Rank: Kingfish
Rank: Kingfish
Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 8:46 pm
Location: Shepparton
Likes received: 5 times

Re: Line twist

Post by Rod Bender » Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:28 am

With the reel in place on your rod and the line through the rod eyes as usual, tie a good quality ball bearing swivel to the end of your line. Anchor the swivel to something solid. Let a fair amount, if not all of the line out as you walk away from where the swivel is anchored. Then use the rod to put a fair amount of tension on the line. The ball bearing swivel should rotate under the tension of all the line twist and therefore the twist will be removed. I have tried it a couple times and it seems to work OK.
thanks
Jim
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TackleNut
Rank: Australian Salmon
Rank: Australian Salmon
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 7:46 pm

Re: Line twist

Post by TackleNut » Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:39 pm

Fish-cador wrote:
TackleNut wrote: And whats wrong, I am not good enough to buy from smh smh :!: :!:

This is were most braids rule the roost as they are softer and have very little memory. Nick
too expensive Nick. :lolf:

Go braid. they are cheap now. No line twist issues. I don't use swivels anymore. I tie my leaders directly to the braid. Twist? what twist? I never had one in many years.

Hmmn, what can we buy around here...

http://shop.ebay.com.au/fishing_bits_an ... ksid=p3686
Hi Earl,
How's the missus treating you ? Well I hope and I hope that your both well :) :)
I agree with you buddy, but I was on another forum where some guys there complained a lot about some braids twisting up badly on them and having a lot of memory :? :? Yes thats right, on some braids / superlines.
Now I have used a lot of different make, models and sizes of braids and never ever had this problem.
In the past I would try everyline that I coiuld get my hands on to see how well they worked and were put together and to be truthful I never ever had a superline with line twist and memory like what these guys descride.
Sure I have had some of the lines be a bit stiff but it would always straighten out when cast and not go back into loops.
This I have found mainly using the fused type lines like Fireline or Microfuse but the added stiffness aloud me to actually cast further using ultra light jig heads or little/lite hard bodies like the Rapala CD3's F3's, Ecogear SX40's, Yo Zuri 40mm Snap Shads plus all the rest of that bunch ( from Daiwa to the Kokoda's ), in fact the fused lines let me cast all my cast & retrieve lures easier, I found that I could cast like a man possesed somedays.
Yet some complained bitterly about some of the makes of lines doing it in particular.
Seems very strange that a line made of a material like Spectra/Dyneema that is supposed to be siencetifically proven not to hold Kinks, Loops, Twists, Coils or have any other memory problems. It's supposed to be a very "Dumb" or "Stupid" material due to it's lack of memory.
So what are these guys complaining about ?
I like you havent had the problem, and some of my reels only get used 1 or 2 times a year, so you would think that if the line had memory in it, it would have set these lines into huge coiled messes that you just couldn't use.
Swivels, yes used to use alot of them when using mono but soon got out of using them once I could tie the braid to mono connections properly.

cheers
Nick

Bartnmax
Rank: Australian Salmon
Rank: Australian Salmon
Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:53 am
Likes received: 2 times

Re: Line twist

Post by Bartnmax » Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:56 am

Ok. As Nick said, line twist tends to be more of a problem with some lines than others.
The culprit is 'memory'. Put line on a spool at the factory & it will develop memory.
The longer it's on the shop shelf the more memory it will develop.

The first trick is trying to remove as much of the memory as you can when spooling your reel.
I always run line off a spool through warm (near hot but noit too hot) water, under a towel in the water to keep the line down & under tension, when re-spooling my reels.

Try to follow the natural lay of the line as much as you can (don't allow the line to come off the spool from the side, etc).
The next trick is in trying to keep the line from re-twisting. One word here 'Swivells'.
Now, wen using that word there is another word that absolutely must go with it every time - 'quality'.
That's - 'QUALITY SWIVELLS'

Using cheap swivells is a total waste of time & will cause more trouble than it will cure.
If you're gonna spend your hard earned cash on tackle, & then use your valuable leisure time to use that tackle chasing fish, then for christ's sake use decent tackle. Cheap swivells are a waste of time & a waste of money.

If you're using side cast reels (surf fishing, etc) consider using double swivells (two swivells joined together with a split ring). There's also no reason you cant do this with any other reel configuration as well.

Also, always use the smallest swivells you can get away with.
Using bloody great swivells on light line is totally counter-productive.
Larger swivells involve larger surface areas internally & that means greater internal friction to overcome before the swivell starts doing it's job (swivelling).
On light line the line may not have the strength to overcome the internal friction within the swivell, even when using good quality swivells, so use what you need & no more.
Bloody great 75kg swivells tied into 5kg line are useless, even if they are top quality items.
When tying knots in yer line you generally weaken it anywhere from 5% to 50%, but usually, as long as your using good knots & tying em well, strength depletion will ususally be around 5%-10%.
So, based on that, I'd recommend using swivells that are no more than 20%-30% heavier than the line you're using.
Going back to our 5kg line that means you only need swivells with a rating of 6.5kg at most.
Ok, let's say double it for the sake of being overly cautious - go to 10kg & be done with it.
That's a full 50% over line rating & a hellova long way from our 75kg 'monster swivells'.
Another example would be the typical snapper rig using 30lb line (13.5kg).
All that's needed is a good quality 20kg swivell at absolute most.
10 to 1 that's about 1/3rd lighter than most guys are using with their cheaper swivells.

You DON'T need heavy swivells. You DO need top quality swivells.

Bill.

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