Pictures/Diagrams of your boats electrics

[purple5ive]

It was the only spot for it on my console BM. In an ideal world I'd have it on the dash.

They are auto reset. By that I think there must be a bimetal strip or something in them that when its drawing too much current it open circuits. I've never tested them but I assume it's reset by flicking the switch on and off.

Definitely don't want to be screwing around with fuses. It's like for your house. The old SERF ceramic fuses have been replaced by resettable breakers. Much better that way too. Especially when a lack of a spare fuse could mean big trouble if your on the water

Also very easy to wire. 1 feed powers the switchboard off the isolator. The connections for various circuits then only need a spade terminal onto whatever breaker you want to use. And simply common up all the negatives.

Ducky just curios.
what amps do the breakers go off at. would think theres a few different ones in the one panel or are they all the same??

also with these house boards. do you have to replace the ceramic ones with new breakers, i need to replace my Oven thats a gas unit with an electric one and the guy that quoted to do the job said the switchboard needs to be upgraded because its the older style, even though theres a spare fuse holder available.



also wouldnt mind some opinions from members here on how to go about this. (was going to start a new thread but since this one is alredy done, thought id ask here, hope you dont mind chris)

i am going with 2 batteries, one for trolling motor and one for everything else, the boat is coming prewired with a 2 battery isolator switch with the house battery already wired in, the trolling motor battery will be wired to the second battery isolator switch, and also the trolling motor (not sure if this can even be done ??), so i can have a second start battery if i need it, on the main battery i want to run sounder, nav lights and maybe a bilge pump, but not sure how to wire it up yet.
as in go through the isolator or just use a switch panel and wire directly to battery.

cheers

[barra mick]

It was the only spot for it on my console BM. In an ideal world I'd have it on the dash.

They are auto reset. By that I think there must be a bimetal strip or something in them that when its drawing too much current it open circuits. I've never tested them but I assume it's reset by flicking the switch on and off.

Definitely don't want to be screwing around with fuses. It's like for your house. The old SERF ceramic fuses have been replaced by resettable breakers. Much better that way too. Especially when a lack of a spare fuse could mean big trouble if your on the water

Also very easy to wire. 1 feed powers the switchboard off the isolator. The connections for various circuits then only need a spade terminal onto whatever breaker you want to use. And simply common up all the negatives.

Ducky just curios.
what amps do the breakers go off at. would think theres a few different ones in the one panel or are they all the same??

also with these house boards. do you have to replace the ceramic ones with new breakers, i need to replace my Oven thats a gas unit with an electric one and the guy that quoted to do the job said the switchboard needs to be upgraded because its the older style, even though theres a spare fuse holder available.



also wouldnt mind some opinions from members here on how to go about this. (was going to start a new thread but since this one is alredy done, thought id ask here, hope you dont mind chris)

i am going with 2 batteries, one for trolling motor and one for everything else, the boat is coming prewired with a 2 battery isolator switch with the house battery already wired in, the trolling motor battery will be wired to the second battery isolator switch, and also the trolling motor (not sure if this can even be done ??), so i can have a second start battery if i need it, on the main battery i want to run sounder, nav lights and maybe a bilge pump, but not sure how to wire it up yet.
as in go through the isolator or just use a switch panel and wire directly to battery.

cheers

so your having 3 batteries total ? Starting, trolling and one for the electronics.

How are you charging all 3....just off the alternator

[purple5ive]

having 2 batteries
one AGM battery for trolling and one std battery for everything else (starting, nav light, sounder and bildge pump). starting battery is wired to a dual battery isolator and is charged by the motor.
was intending to wire the second battery (trolling motor one) to the second battery terminal on the isolator so that it can also be charged and used for starting the boat in case the first one went flat as well as use it for the trolling motor
im not entierly sure this can be done though (as in how to wire it up to do that).hence why im asking.

[ducky]

I had a dual battery isolator put in when I first got the boat. The theory being I could charge the trolling battery whilst running the outboard then isolate it from the starting battery when I'm running the electric.

However an incident with the original crappy batteries somewhere far up a river around 1 hour from the ramp where I had accidently left it on dual battery and proceeded to flatten both the starting and aux batteries leaving me absolutely shitting myself when the motor wouldn't start. I eventually got it going but it wasn't a nice feeling. Both batteries have since been replaced and wired differently so that can't happen again.

When I do a proper rewire I'll be including a voltage sensitive relay. So the second battery will automatically charge once the alternator is running. Then isolate itself when it is off.

That's the best way forward I think. The less you have to remember the better.

[purple5ive]

ok, thanks should have thought about the VSR beforehand.
i always intended to charge the trolling motor battery seperately when i got home anyway, this was more of a case of just in case i flattened the main battery i could use the second one to start the boat. plus charging the second battery while undr way was a bonus

[barra mick]

I think if you take your boat to isolated places , even somewhere like dartmouth you need to keep the battery that starts the boat putely just for that.

ive only just started on the boat today and I spent 2 hrs and went backwards

[purple5ive]

I agree 100%
i was asking around a few boat delaers, and the general concencus was that for a boat like what i had (50hp electric start) no electric anchor, no deck wash, pumps etc.
they said running sounder and nav lights off the starting battery was perfectly fine.
im still not sure wether its a good idea or not.

[ducky]

My 60hp etec apparently is a 0 volt motor. Meaning you don't need a battery connected to it to have it run. You only need it for ignition and tilt/trim.

I'd just run all the essentials off the starter battery. And all the non essentials off the leccy battery. That way if the worst happens you can still fire up the motor and get going.

[chris srsc]

On the 2nd battery even though its part of the dual system via a 4 position switch ..its better to have a deep cycle battery...keep it charged with a $30 solar panel
Huge job rewiring it all to how you want it..im doing bits as i go so its never out of action...lol

And yes batteries have a used buy date ...dont get stuck on the water to find that out..like last friday..lol

I did have a thought of running a charging wire from the car as i drive to the ramp...its still on the drawing board..not a hard thing to do..just one of the many

[purple5ive]

yeah i was told the etecs can be strated without a battery, thats the only good thing about them i reckon lolll.
im not sure if mine comes with a pull cord start as well.

what do you classify as essentials and non essentials..

chris - second battery will be a AGM 120ah battery, so maybe i could just use that to run all my sounder and everything else.