Ctek charger sorry seems autocorrect got me.rb85 wrote:Matt I use a ctek charger in my boat recommend it goes through a multi step charging process that can recondition batteries that appear to be losing power to quickly also goes through a voltage check function that charges batteries as the voltage drops over time.Mattblack wrote:Thanks guys...that makes perfect sense (I didn't realise that an unused battery's life expectancy was shorter than a used one) Might get an oven to see how long it lasts (& use it on the 'accessories battery'!)
12V Portable Ovens
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
Ive got a Ctek...and agree, it's a cute little thing!rb85 wrote:Ctek charger sorry seems autocorrect got me.rb85 wrote:Matt I use a ctek charger in my boat recommend it goes through a multi step charging process that can recondition batteries that appear to be losing power to quickly also goes through a voltage check function that charges batteries as the voltage drops over time.Mattblack wrote:Thanks guys...that makes perfect sense (I didn't realise that an unused battery's life expectancy was shorter than a used one) Might get an oven to see how long it lasts (& use it on the 'accessories battery'!)
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
Mate, I'm not clever man with all this....it does say 150W....will my 10amp socket be ok with this?XalFish wrote:Does that say 150W? If so, it's drawing more current than a lot of sockets are rated for. You are probably best off running a dedicated line and socket for this (fuse it appropriately, close to the battery).
Another thing to keep in mind is that most batteries, even deep cycle ones, do not appreciate being flattened completely.
As above, some level of separation is important between loads and the starter battery. Don't want to get stuck!
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
No. At best the socket will get hot, and the wiring will get hot, and it won't work very well. At worst, either the socket or the wiring will melt or catch on fire. If it's fused at 10 amps, and you pull 11.5 Amps (your battery will be between 12V and 14V depending on charge and type. Let's take 13V as an average. The current drawn is watts divided by volts, so 150/13 = 11.5 Amps), you may blow the fuse but I wouldn't count on it. Fuses generally blow very slowly that close to their rating.Mattblack wrote:
Mate, I'm not clever man with all this....it does say 150W....will my 10amp socket be ok with this?
Best off installing a dedicated line for this sort of thing, with a cable rated for the load. 5mm or 6mm twin would be overkill, but a safe bet. Fuse it at 15A close to the battery on the positive wire, and make sure the socket is also rated for 15Amps.
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
Sure are lolMattblack wrote:Ive got a Ctek...and agree, it's a cute little thing!rb85 wrote:Ctek charger sorry seems autocorrect got me.rb85 wrote:Matt I use a ctek charger in my boat recommend it goes through a multi step charging process that can recondition batteries that appear to be losing power to quickly also goes through a voltage check function that charges batteries as the voltage drops over time.Mattblack wrote:Thanks guys...that makes perfect sense (I didn't realise that an unused battery's life expectancy was shorter than a used one) Might get an oven to see how long it lasts (& use it on the 'accessories battery'!)
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
F-that....might just stick to thermos hotdogs & cuppa-soup. Just for future reference, what would be the max wattage before the wiring and socket starts warming up...100W?XalFish wrote:No. At best the socket will get hot, and the wiring will get hot, and it won't work very well. At worst, either the socket or the wiring will melt or catch on fire. If it's fused at 10 amps, and you pull 11.5 Amps (your battery will be between 12V and 14V depending on charge and type. Let's take 13V as an average. The current drawn is watts divided by volts, so 150/13 = 11.5 Amps), you may blow the fuse but I wouldn't count on it. Fuses generally blow very slowly that close to their rating.Mattblack wrote:
Mate, I'm not clever man with all this....it does say 150W....will my 10amp socket be ok with this?
Best off installing a dedicated line for this sort of thing, with a cable rated for the load. 5mm or 6mm twin would be overkill, but a safe bet. Fuse it at 15A close to the battery on the positive wire, and make sure the socket is also rated for 15Amps.
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
Themo hotdoga are great tuckerMattblack wrote:F-that....might just stick to thermos hotdogs & cuppa-soup. Just for future reference, what would be the max wattage before the wiring and socket starts warming up...100W?XalFish wrote:No. At best the socket will get hot, and the wiring will get hot, and it won't work very well. At worst, either the socket or the wiring will melt or catch on fire. If it's fused at 10 amps, and you pull 11.5 Amps (your battery will be between 12V and 14V depending on charge and type. Let's take 13V as an average. The current drawn is watts divided by volts, so 150/13 = 11.5 Amps), you may blow the fuse but I wouldn't count on it. Fuses generally blow very slowly that close to their rating.Mattblack wrote:
Mate, I'm not clever man with all this....it does say 150W....will my 10amp socket be ok with this?
Best off installing a dedicated line for this sort of thing, with a cable rated for the load. 5mm or 6mm twin would be overkill, but a safe bet. Fuse it at 15A close to the battery on the positive wire, and make sure the socket is also rated for 15Amps.
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
This is why I came to the conclusion the travel buddies are the go. They get hotter. 180-190 degrees instead of 140-150 and they run less current. From memory 6-8A
There's no point spending money upgrading your sockets etc to power the cheap unit when the expensive and highly recommended unit requires no upgrades.
There's no point spending money upgrading your sockets etc to power the cheap unit when the expensive and highly recommended unit requires no upgrades.
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Re: 12V Portable Ovens
Thanks Ducky....I'd be buggered without this advice I get off this website!ducky wrote:This is why I came to the conclusion the travel buddies are the go. They get hotter. 180-190 degrees instead of 140-150 and they run less current. From memory 6-8A
There's no point spending money upgrading your sockets etc to power the cheap unit when the expensive and highly recommended unit requires no upgrades.